Day 229/230 - Fairbanks - Wiseman (within the Arctic Circle) - Fairbanks

Distance travelled (by bike): 33,350

Still raining as i left Fairbanks and headed north. The fog had closed in leaving visibility very limited. Following Highway 2 until i got to the Dalton Highway, or as locally known as, the haul road. I was warned that though about half the highway is now paved, it has huge potholes everywhere. With the rain still coming down the unpaved sections were mud, making driving harder especially when a vehicle passed on the other side or i was behind traffic, the mud would be splashed over the visor and wiping just smeared the mud. Pulling over to clean my visor became a regular occurrence. 

Once on some of the paved sections i got the chance to overtake some of the slower vehicles, speeding up and bouncing over the potholes.

Around mile 70 the 'Roller Coaster' starts, now famous since the Ice Road Truckers TV programme, the road flows up and down steep gradients, much like a roller coaster.

Soon Passing into the Arctic circle!!!

In the afternoon i stopped at Coldfoot (population 13) for fuel, stopping further up the road at Wiseman for the night. Eating dinner in Coldfoot i got speaking to some of the truckers, when i told them i was heading to Deadhorse one of the older ones told me 'the weather is sh*ty, so the roads are sh*ty, Deadhorse is sh*ty. Son, you've travelled far enough, there ain't nothing worth seeing up north, can't even get to the sea without paying to go on a tour, takes a while as they need to do background check n' stuff like that…you know since 9/11'.

Another wet start to the day. Having thought about what the old boy said and seeing more rain i decided he was right. I was within the Arctic Circle and to go further north without getting to the Arctic sea would be pointless, especially as i'd have to return the same way. 

As I drove back down the Dalton the rain stopped for a while and the sun came out, it really is beautiful when you can see the scenery. 

Enjoying the drive and apparently ignoring the speed limit i was pulled over by two police cars, both driving towards me on the opposite side of the road. Since it only took one officer to book me the other petrol car took off. I knew i was speeding, but i had no idea what speed i was doing when they clocked me, i also had no idea what the speed limit was. This was soon explained, speed limit 50mph, my speed 75mph. The police office was good banter, sadly he didn't drop the fine or ticket, explaining that it was just to fast. No problem, fair is fair, i was speeding. Before he left he did point out my rear tyre was running on the tread wear marking. I knew it was wearing close, but every mile counts. Maybe time for a new one!

As i returned slowly into Fairbanks the rain had started again. Taking the officers advice I went in search of a new tyre. Arriving at Trail End Motorcycles, They had the tyres in stock. I was told i should speak to Justin (working in sales), he and his girlfriend had had been travelling on his motorcycle for 18 months through south and central America, returning in April, turns out we missed each other by hours twice in Argentina. 

start of the Dalton

stopping to refuel

its official, i made it

the only fuel along the Dalton, the desolate Coldfoot services

on one of the pit toilets on the way down the Dalton

part of the 'roller coaster'

The state trooper with my ticket in his hand!

Day 227/228 - Tok - Fairbanks / Fairbanks

Distance travelled (by bike): 32,700

Stopping for something to eat i met Matt and Howard, who generously treated me to breakfast, they are travelling around Alaska for a few weeks on their bikes and pulling some crazy uni-go trailers. 

From Tok there is only one road to Fairbanks, this takes you through Delta Junction,marking the official end of the Alaska highway becoming the Richardson Highway. The views across the Alaskan Landscape were amazing with Mount Mckinley visible in the distance.

The North Pole, Alaska, despite the name, the town is 1,700 miles from the geographic north pole. It does however have the twin of the actual pole that marks the geographical north pole, the largest Santa in the world (over 40 foot)  and Santa Claus House. 

The town have embraced christmas, the street lights are decorated like candy canes, the police cars are green and red and the streets have a christmas theme, Snowman Lane, Kris Kringle Drive, Santa Claus lane to name a few.

I was going to head north up to the Arctic circle today, but waking up to hail then rain i decided that i had the time and the arctic could wait a day, instead spending the day relaxing in Fairbanks. With the rain and not a huge amount to do in Fairbanks it was a relaxing day. A visit to the motor museum, the historic paddle steamer and a hike though one of the surrounding recreation areas and the day was about done. Back on the bike tomorrow to get up to the Arctic circle and maybe beyond.

Matt & Howard with the crazy trailers

40 foot santa

Santa Claus at the North Pole

parked infront of the twin of the pole at the pole

for the next adventure - i think it suits me

Day 226 - Dawson City - Tok (Alaska)

Distance travelled (by bike): 32,470

From Dawson you get a small ferry over the river to the start of the 'top of the world highway', named because its one of the most northerly highways, only open in summer. Driving it you can see why its shut in the winter, for most of the highway you are driving on the crest of hills looking down into the valleys below. A fantastic and little used road compared to the Alaska highway, defiantly worth the detour. 

On the road is the border between the US and Canada. The border guard was telling me that they shut the highway and border on the 15th September, by then its usually starting to snow and getting to cold to stay up there. 

Leaving the bleak border post i headed to Chicken, originally named Ptarmigan by the miners, it was changed to Chicken when nobody could agree on the spelling of Ptarmigan. Getting there for a late lunch i drove into downtown, this consists of three buildings. I was told by other travellers i had to go to the bar, not wanting to disappoint i did. Amazing little bar! Pint in hand i strolled net door to the cafe and ordered lunch, fantastic food!! I was very tempted to pitch the tent and settle in at the bar, but somehow i managed to switch to coffee and packed up to leave. 

When i was packing up i met Buffy an Austrailan who just started cycling from Deadhorse, Alaska to wherever he decides and however long it takes (http://sites.google.com/site/buff3ysbicyclingblog/), after a quick chat i headed south to Tok.

I have seen some strange things and met some eccentric people on my travels, but George and Beth Jacobs have to be very close to the top. They own, run and live at Mukluk Land. The Jacobs are collectomanics (is that a word?), situated just outside Tok, Mukluk Land is home to their unique collections, cans, skidoos, engines, dolls, cereal boxes, outhouses, realistically i think anything they can find gets a place somewhere on the land. A fantastically eccentric place run by even more eccentric people, if your passing, in my opinion, its a must! see!!

setting off on the ferry

start of the 'Top of the world highway'

the US/Canada border post

the bar in Chicken

parked in downtown Chicken

Mukluk Land - the madness begins!!

some of the cereal box collection 

part of the actual pipeline

a racing outhouse

part of the outhouse collection 

one of the doll collections 

in my opinion the highlight of the unusual exhibits 

part of the ski-doo collection